Brake warning light started flickering. Then when dark came I realized that dash lights are dim and won't crank up. Driveway mechanic friend is coming over tomorrow to check things like alternator.
Methinks that it is time to euthanize. I need to tally the costs of the last few months and try to get that in trade. But I can't live up here and have family scattered everywhere and not be able to trust my ride.
Yeah, I concur with your assessment. I still run around here in the '94 with over 200K miles and I drove it up there twice. I don't trust it to do that any more. Work and back sure, but I know if it falls out a 50 dollar tow and a friend to pick me up would NOT be happening 7 hours away from here. I feel ya.
Catylist efficiency code? Check for Vacuum leaks and stuff like that. Any input error to the cat will cause the cat to malfunction/ not workas well as it should. Last, there is a "dodge" used by the hi performance folks to fake out the rear o2 sensor..Use a spark plug "anti fouler", which spaces the sensor out a ways...
Thanks. I think it's just reached the point where I don't feel I can trust it anymore. And it's become a money sink - as soon as I repair one thing another breaks.
I take it that little symbol (what we pilots would call the EICA message) isn't saying your latte is ready.
The bat truck has 100,000 miles on it and I have a 4 hour drive on a dangerous stretch of highway each way to work, once a week. But it's paid for, which so far has prevented me from buying a new one.
They should make the symbol a $ instead of a little engine.
I've put 156,000 on it. But I was hoping for 200,000. Fortunately, it was paid off long ago. Unfortunately, I've sunk a good down payment into in the last couple months.
Bottom line, as long as it is not blinking, it *should* not be causing harm to the car. It means the emissions are 1.5 times what they should be. As long as you don't have an inspection coming up, just drive it. Do the usual fluid checks, and watch the temperature guage. Like normal.. As long as it is not blinking, it is not a sign of impending doom. If it is misfiring the light will blink, and it could melt the catylist. It is part of a government mandated emission system, and is meant to worry you to fixing it. I am a MECHANIC, with close to 40 years experience (Hurts to type that, I am not that old!!) As long as the usual stuff is kept up it should be safe to use until you can figure out the next step.
Thanks, J. It just passed inspection a couple weeks ago... I was banking on it still being drivable. If it happened to die while I'm out and about around here there are people I can call for a rescue.
PH, for around $26 you can get a code reader to pull the error code when this happens. On line, you can find the meaning of the error code. Then give Keades a call :) It literally can be as simple a problem as a bad gas cap as Keades noted. I've recently learned the joy of delegating. Apologies K... well you are much closer...
Oh crap! Try the easy thing first. Gas cap on tight?
ReplyDeleteBrake warning light started flickering. Then when dark came I realized that dash lights are dim and won't crank up. Driveway mechanic friend is coming over tomorrow to check things like alternator.
DeleteOh, what is it. I might be able to find some mystical fault decoder for it here.
ReplyDeleteMethinks that it is time to euthanize. I need to tally the costs of the last few months and try to get that in trade. But I can't live up here and have family scattered everywhere and not be able to trust my ride.
DeleteYeah, I concur with your assessment. I still run around here in the '94 with over 200K miles and I drove it up there twice. I don't trust it to do that any more. Work and back sure, but I know if it falls out a 50 dollar tow and a friend to pick me up would NOT be happening 7 hours away from here. I feel ya.
DeleteI guess this is what happens when you drive a car too slow for years.
ReplyDeleteSmart a$$!
DeleteThose "check engine" lights are so non-specific as to be useless. Sorry, ma'am.
ReplyDeleteCatalytic converter. Straw, meet camel's back.
DeleteCatylist efficiency code? Check for Vacuum leaks and stuff like that. Any input error to the cat will cause the cat to malfunction/ not workas well as it should. Last, there is a "dodge" used by the hi performance folks to fake out the rear o2 sensor..Use a spark plug "anti fouler", which spaces the sensor out a ways...
ReplyDeleteThanks. I think it's just reached the point where I don't feel I can trust it anymore. And it's become a money sink - as soon as I repair one thing another breaks.
DeleteI take it that little symbol (what we pilots would call the EICA message) isn't saying your latte is ready.
ReplyDeleteThe bat truck has 100,000 miles on it and I have a 4 hour drive on a dangerous stretch of highway each way to work, once a week. But it's paid for, which so far has prevented me from buying a new one.
They should make the symbol a $ instead of a little engine.
DeleteI've put 156,000 on it. But I was hoping for 200,000. Fortunately, it was paid off long ago. Unfortunately, I've sunk a good down payment into in the last couple months.
PH, that is the funniest thing I've read all week!
Delete$ sign..heh, snort.
Again??? Damn...
ReplyDeleteBottom line, as long as it is not blinking, it *should* not be causing harm to the car. It means the emissions are 1.5 times what they should be. As long as you don't have an inspection coming up, just drive it. Do the usual fluid checks, and watch the temperature guage. Like normal.. As long as it is not blinking, it is not a sign of impending doom. If it is misfiring the light will blink, and it could melt the catylist. It is part of a government mandated emission system, and is meant to worry you to fixing it. I am a MECHANIC, with close to 40 years experience (Hurts to type that, I am not that old!!) As long as the usual stuff is kept up it should be safe to use until you can figure out the next step.
ReplyDeleteThanks, J. It just passed inspection a couple weeks ago... I was banking on it still being drivable. If it happened to die while I'm out and about around here there are people I can call for a rescue.
DeleteWhat J Bogan said. If it ain't blinking and the car is running OK, just drive it.
ReplyDeletePH, for around $26 you can get a code reader to pull the error code when this happens. On line, you can find the meaning of the error code. Then give Keades a call :)
ReplyDeleteIt literally can be as simple a problem as a bad gas cap as Keades noted.
I've recently learned the joy of delegating. Apologies K... well you are much closer...